13 Dec

Breakfast was included with our hotel room, so we rolled down to the restaurant expecting the usual sort of “ploughman’s lunch” breakfast spread that most hotels in western Europe favor, but were pleasantly surprised by getting quite the spread — coffee, fresh squeezed orange juice, plus a menu to order from, of which I opted again for a full English breakfast. Sorry, no pictures included this time around. The beans were cold and the sausages were hot dogs rather than Cumberland sausages, but the mushrooms were amazing and the sausages were hot dogs! Heather ran into a little translation issue when she ordered an omelet with ham and red onions, and instead got a plate of fried eggs with slices of ham and raw red onions as garnish, but generally continuing our very good run of Greek meals.

The drive out to Lefkada was … interesting. The highways around Athens were fairly busy (and I will write about Greek drivers some day in the future) but once we got out of town and into the rest of the country, the highways mostly became empty despite being what appeared to be in pretty good condition. That’s probably due to the tolls which seemed to crop up every twenty miles or so. I think the drive out to Lefkada was probably more expensive than the drive from Landstuhl to Paris was.

We spent the drive partially trying to teach ourselves the alphabet. We did NOT do a good job of prepping ourselves linguistically to be in Greece. I knew maybe two words? and all of the knowledge I had of Greek letters came from a brief fling I had with it when I was like eight years old. (Better than H who only knew what was in her sorority letters.) But one of the things I HAD read said that the alphabet was the hard part — that because around FOUR HUNDRED THOUSAND English words have their root in Greek, that it could be possible to intuit what words mean once you can figure out how to pronounce it. And this leads into the first word we learned, and the first of our Greek lessons!

exodos | εχοδοσ | exit

Learned this from highway signs and it was a lightbulb moment. The town names on the signage were all in both Greek and Roman letters, so being able to match the Greek letters to the Roman was made a little easier, and once you get on a roll (and once you start quizzing each other or correcting each other) then you just get in this confirmation cycle and … it helps.

We also spent WAY too long discussing whether “Heather” in Greek was “Heather” or whatever the Greek word for “a small purple flower from the Highlands of Scotland” is. It started because H wondered how to spell her name in Greek (where TH is one character and H is a vowel) (and which I now think is probably ΧΕΘΕΡ) but devolved into lots of bad examples of why this doesn’t work (most notably that this doesn’t work in reverse, and it doesn’t work for last names, “Mr. Cobbler” wouldn’t be called “Mr. Shoe Repair Man” in another country) and eventually divulged into the involvement of a girl from Scandinavia named Flaxflorgen who would be offended if she ever made it to America and was just called “Sandy.”

Anyways.

We got off the highway, following Apple’s directions, and while we were definitely getting close, Apple seemed to think that we were still over an hour from our destination despite being something like 12 miles from the island. Turns out this is because Apple had us off on crazy single-track backroads going through chicken farms and bare lands, and we ended up in a couple situations where oncoming traffic was … let’s say snug. In fact, coming down one hill, an oncoming driver flashed his lights more than once, and when we got to the bottom of the hill, we discovered it was because there was a herd of goats (with goatherd) blocking the road!

After goats and ruins and single-track roads, eventually we made our way across the bridge to the island, and then to the cottage. We met Nicos, the father of our host, who gave us a tour of the cottage (which I will also provide to you in some future update), and let us know that if we wanted lemons or oranges, to just pick them from the trees around the grounds.

A quick trip back into yielded spaghetti and garlic for a quick dinner, and then we turned in. Nice comfy bed and the windows open in December. Not too bad a life.

12 Dec

Docked into LHR and settled in for a six hour layover. We had options when we bought the tickets to do either a one-hour layover or a six-hour layover, and there seemed to be a lot of ways a one-hour layover could go wrong. Better to be safe and get breakfast and be … leisurely about it.

Food on the plane was questionable (especially what passed for a “bacon sandwich” that they served for breakfast) so first order of business was finding some sustenance. Every food place in the airport serves a full English breakfast, so we picked one of them and got some coffee and a big plate of goodness.

Tattie scones even, or what passes for them in an airport.

(Heather just got fried potatoes. Not a fan of baked beans I guess.)

Grabbed a necessary universal plug converter since we failed to bring any of ours with us.

LHR <rocket emoji> ATH

Breezed through passport control, luggage retrieval, the rental car counter, and after some overcomplication on my part of the instructions to the rental car pickup lot, we set off in our tiny Nissan for our hotel for the night, the hotel Seasabelle. One thing I didn’t know about Athens was its proximity to the coast of Greece, so it turns out that half of the “airport adjacent hotels” are beachside in little Ashtabula-sized coastal towns. We got upgraded to a beach view room and ate a dinner from the gyro place next door out on the terrace.

A very quick word about English. I am no longer shocked when every person in a new foreign country speaks English — most of them speak three or four languages and their definition of “a little” makes them more fluent than most American fourth graders. But I’m unsure here what tagged me as an English speaker, even though I was not at all prepared to be speaking Greek to anyone — the rental car desk operative, the hotel concierge, the gyro counter staff, the waitresses in the hotel restaurant all somehow sussed me out and spoke English to me to start the conversations. I don’t know if it was my pale complexion or my comfortable sweatshirt or what. It definitely wasn’t my shoes though.

This is also the moment where I start wondering exactly how inexpensive living in Greece is going to be. Two gyros, two gigantic boxes of french fries, two sodas cost fourteen euros. That would have cost forty dollars in the US easily.

We left the doors to the veranda open and slept to the soft sound of the waves of the Aegean.

11 Dec

PHL <rocket emoji> LHR

(Can we do emojis in posts?)

Watched Mission Impossible: Dead Reckoning Part One on the flight. They really had a formula for all these movies, didn’t they! I’m not sure I’m buying (spoiler alert) “a supreme artificial intelligence” as the main bad guy for even one of these movies, let alone two, but it seems like AI is all over the place these days so I guess it’s about as “sign of the times” as the media mogul bad guy in that one Pierce Brosnan James Bond movie.

I do like the addition of Hayley Atwell to this franchise. I don’t know if they’ll end up letting her anchor a second generation of them over the next ten years, but I would watch them. But I also thought they were doing that with Jeremy Renner in Ghost Protocol and that didn’t exactly go anywhere, so I guess we’ll see.

(Also they could have let Josh Holloway survive Ghost Protocol and I would have watched all sorts of that.)